Photo Essay: In the Land of Bisses

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Walking along Bisse Vieux

I know I've been missing in action for the last couple of days, but I promise to make up for it. After all, during this time, I've been discovering some more corners of Switzerland, that I can't wait to share with you. Given that I missed out last week's Photo Essay, I decided to start the week with a walk through the land of bisses. 

What are bisses anyway?

To put it simple, Bisses are old water channels that are used for cultivation. These channels were built to fight the drought that farmer's in Valais are exposed to during summer time. By carving out water paths, farmers collect water from rivers ( mainly La Printse) and artificially divert it to their crops. 

I was surprised to find out that particularly this region - Nendaz - is one of Switzerland's most important raspberry and apricot plantations. When driving up to Haute-Nendaz during spring, we were surrounded by beautiful flowering apricot trees all over the valley.

Walking the Bisse Vieux 

Although there are several hike along different bisses in the region, we decided to explore the Bisse Vieux, one of the oldest channels, built around 1658.

The path next to Bisse Vieux, Nendaz

We found frozen water along the walk!

Unusual rock formations covered in moss

On our way back 

This walk goes for 7 kms starting in Nendaz up to Planchouet. We didn't walk the whole way, because we weren't really prepared for it - it was already late in the afternoon and, as we went by car, we would have had to walk back another 7kms in the dark. However, what I saw (about 3 to 4 out of the 7 kms) were beautiful. Its an easy hike for any age, since the height difference is of 100m along the full trail. 

Its views are spectacular - on a relatively clear afternoon, we could see the whole valley!

Views from the walk

The views as well as the hike is probably even more spectacular during late spring, when the fields are greener and more water flows through the bisse vieux. But I was impatient - couldn't wait for another month!

Facts on Bisses in Canton Valais

1. The water that flows through the bisse vieux has its source in the glaciers Grand-Désert and Tortin. 
2. The oldest bisse of this community - Nendaz - is Bisse de Salins, which was built in 1435 and is still regularly used to irrigate the crops of the region. 
3. In case 7 kms walking aren't enough, there are another 750 kms of walks along  200 bisses in the canton Valais. 
4. Valais is part french-speaking and part german-speaking. Therefore, whereas in the french side these channels are called bisses, the german-speakers call them Suonen. 
5. Valais' longest bisse is a hike of 32 kms that goes through 100 year old larches. 

How was your weekend? Did you find something new in your area?

What Makes an Unforgettable Music Festival

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Source: Flickr

It was July 2009. My first (but hopefully not last) massive music festival. We had two tents for 6 people, and had shopped enough to feed and drink 50 others. I arrived later than the rest, I came straight from having my interview in Switzerland for my current job. I stood at the entry of the festival in a silk dress and heels, hoping that one of my friends could make his way out and hand me over a more suitable outfit. After about 30 minutes, my friend arrived without any kind of attire. Oh, well. Who needs clothes anyway. 

We left my business stuff in the car and I walked into the crowds wearing his T-Shirt - hey, it was long enough to be a dress! 

The next four days were wild. I had never lived in such bad conditions, and I'm seriously not sure if I'd do it again. But it surely brought some moments that I will never forget. 

Stay up until dawn

On the first night, I stayed up until the sun rose. Doing what? Well, dancing to techno music in an alternative tent, faking interviews to anyone around and trading beer for a portable BBQ.

Survive a fire and a hurricane (all on the same day)

Ok, you got me. It wasn't really a hurricane. But on the second day of the festival, the wind started to pick up and this caused something like the end of the world. One of the stages fell apart, all concerts were cancelled for the rest of the evening, the camping place was a big mess with people having lost their tents, metal structures having fallen apart and toilets turned over. To make things even worse, a fire started near the camping and was quickly approaching us. But hey, we survived the night! We slept in the cars and our tents stayed in its place because of the 50 beers we had stored inside. Clever, I know. 

Drink hot beer

It was a great idea to store the beers and the food in our tent. But we should have thought about bringing along a cooler. Benicassim is located on the spanish mediterranean coast side, where temperatures in July usually range 35ºC - 42ºC, already starting early in the morning. A tent amplifies this heat even more - which is why I lived in a bikini to run to the cold showers every morning at 7:00am and go back to lie on the towel, and also is why our beers tasted like hot tea with bubbles. Cheers!

Fall asleep in a rock concert

I like The Killers. I had already seen them live in Germany a couple of years back. But when it was time for their show, on the last evening, I fell asleep while standing in the crowds. I'm not sure how long I slept. I just know that Jenny was a friend of mine woke me up and brought me back to life!

Join hundreds of people dancing a waltz

After surviving The Killers and Rinôcérôse (without needing another nap), while the technicians were removing the equipment from the Green Stage, a waltz started to play and hundreds of people began to dance to its tunes (me included, of course). It was definitely my favorite part of the whole festival. 

Have you ever been to a festival? What made it unforgettable?

Want to see more pictures of Festival Internacional de Benicassim? Check out their Flickr Group!

Outlining Lac Léman (Switzerland)

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Lac Léman (aka. Geneva Lake)

On Sunday, I woke up early - the sun was shining on my face. It was the first day of spring and it felt great! After lunch, I took the chance to discover my city and its surroundings by taking a walk along the lake towards Montreux. 

Montreux is 27 kms away from where I live, which was quite optimistic for a random Sunday afternoon. I told myself I'd walk until I got hungry, tired or cold. And so my walk began.

First signs of Spring

The path next to the Lake

The little Port of Lutry 

After 11 kms outlining the lake, when I reached the center of Cully, I wasn't tired nor hungry. However, the sun wasn't as warm as it was after lunch and a cold breeze was coming through my light spring attire. Turns out that a clear sky and bright sun in march does not automatically mean you can unpack your swimsuit, at least not in Switzerland! 

When the sun comes out, its nice to be a tourist in your own city or region. Walk. Take pictures. See what surrounds you with different eyes, don't just assume that you've seen it already. Fall in love with your city (again). I really recommend it.

Have you ever tried being a tourist in your city or region? Have you grabbed your camera and searched for this alternative angle?

Want to see more pictures of my walk from Lausanne to Cully? Visit my Flickr Gallery!

Not That Kind of Traveler

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A Gourmet Weekend
 with friends in Huelva, Spain

During my trips, I came across many ways of traveling. Hostels are mostly visited by backpackers, as it is a great way of getting to know more people in the same situation. Flashpackers may also be found in some hostels, but will probably prefer the peacefulness and individuality of a Bed & Breakfast. There are tourists for which traveling equals vacation, which again equals to lying under a palm tree at the beach, with an unlimited source of caipirinhas, taking a cruise across the Caribbean or any other activity that doesn't involve taking many decisions. And then , of course, there is the luxurious traveler who wants and will combine comfort and adventure, no matter the price. Examples for this may be some luxury safaris or spending two weeks sailing. 

Obviously, these are only a few types of travelers - There are many more. Each of them are equally considered traveling. 

I've been each of the above at some point. But after I came back from Edinburgh, I realized that my traveling has evolved in the last two years, and now is difficult to classify in any of the above. A couple of months back, I thought I was a Flashpacker. I traveled on a budget and didn't mind spending part of it on tasting local food, but I do not like to travel with my laptop. It distracts me. Maybe I'd do so if I traveled for months, but since the longest I'm away is 3 weeks, I'd rather spend those 3 weeks doing anything else but staring at Blogger and Facebook. 

This has got me wondering: Is it even possible to put travelers into categories? 

A Cultural Weekend
Inside a Parador, in La Granja de San Ildefonso, Spain

I don't think so. If you're like me, you don't follow a pattern. You don't always travel to all inclusive resorts or look for the ultimate party hostel. Some times you spend more, other times you spend less. One holiday may be a Spring Break kind of vacation, other times you may prefer to enjoy a peaceful meal in cafe around the corner. One day, you may feel adventurous and want to try something local, another day, you'll search for a familiar taste.

What makes traveling so unique is that it is practically made for everyone. It's just a matter of finding what suits your own preferences and budget at any time. 

Backpacking Mexico
Coolest Hippy Hostel in Zipolite, Mexico

Do you believe in travel categories? If so, in which one would you include yourself?

Photo Essay: Extraordinary Colors of Edinburgh

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Evening Light in Edinburgh

Whoever said that it always rains in Scotland was probably right. But for an adventurous traveler, this shouldn't be an obstacle, right? Despite Edinburgh's bad weather last weekend, I got myself on my feet to make my way through this mysterious city. 

I must admit that, when I glanced outside the hostel's window and saw the snow, the simple thought of spending the saturday jumping from cafe in cafe felt really appealing. 

Soon after, the snow turned into rain, which made things even worse. How could it rain the only day I had in Edinburgh? (Ok, I know; this seemed less obvious when it only was in my head). After debating if I should simply order another warm coffee and keep on watching people suffer outside in the cold, I decided that I wasn't going to let weather come in my way.  

And I'm glad I did so. During my walk through the city's streets and alleys, I realized that rain suits to Edinburgh - It emphasizes the city's charm and character, and deepens its multiple colors. 

Little Alley starting on the Royal Mile

Edinburgh's Multiple Cafes and Bars

Wet street path reflecting the shops lights

I usually prefer classic buildings to eco-modern structures - the kind of structures you learn about in University - and Edinburgh's stone paths and buildings with colorful bars, restaurants and shops on the ground floor are like food for my eyes. Despite the rain, I couldn't stop smiling. 

For today, some facts that will hopefully open your mind to this beautiful and mysterious city.

1. In October 2004, Edinburgh became the first UNESCO City of Literature. Its world-famous authors include JM Barrie (Peter Pan), Arthur Conan Doyle (Sherlock Holmes) and Kenneth Grahame (Wind in the Willows).
2. Greyfriars Bobby is the bust of a dog (as well as the name of the bar in front of it), who spent 14 years guarding his master's grave in Greyfrienrs Kirkyard back in the 19th century. This is probably one of the most photographed monuments in the city!
3. Edinburgh's Old and New Town were announced as Wolrd Heritages 15 years ago. 
4. The Royal Mile deceived its name because it's a mile long street with two royal buildings on each end - on one side, Edinburgh Castle, on the other, Holyroodhouse Palace 
5. Edinburgh's Castle stands on the plug of an extinct volcano. After, the force of a glacial erosion created a crag and tail formation - being The Castle Rock the crag and the Royal Mile, the tail

What about you: Have you been to Edinburgh? What do you think about tourism when it rains?

Want to see more pictures of Edinburgh? Visit my Flickr Gallery!

Oh! And by the way, lovely Lauren from The Blog You're About to Read just hosted a guest post of mine about My homeland, Tenerife!

Photo Essay: Little Havana, Miami

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Calle 8, Little Havana - Miami

Besides for the beaches, the art deco buildings and the huge shopping malls, Miami is known for its multicultural essence. When I visited Miami back in December 2009, I knew I wanted to take a walk through Little Havana, which has been home for many cubans (and other hispanic cultures) that escaped Castro's regime. 


Little Havana is geographically and culturally close to Cuba. It's architecture is nothing to be compared to La Habana's colonial buildings, but the essence of the country is still latent among the locals - men playing domino and chess in one of the neighborhoods parks, paintings representing Cuba's starts, and a constant smell of cuban cigars coming out of every corner. It all transported me to another time, another place. 

Cuban Cigars

Man smoking cigar and, in the background, men playing domino and chess

Colorful Wall paintings with Cuba's most international artists (including Celia Cruz and Tito Puente)

Although we stayed for a short time, it gave me many thoughts on the history of Cuba - US relations. But don't worry, I won't get all political on this. Instead, I've prepared 5 things you may not know about Miami's Little Havana:

1. In recent years, Little Havana has received many Nicaraguan immigrants and now has an area called Little Managua, in a tribute to the Nicaraguan capital.
2. The US biggest street party (and one of the biggest Worldwide) takes place in Calle Ocho. The Festival de la Calle Ocho is 15 blocks long and takes places this sunday 13th of March. 
3. In 1998, The Festival de la Calle Ocho set history in the Guinness World Records for the longest conga line, which contained almost 120,000 people. 
4. Little Havana has stands with Cuban Coffee, which looks like espresso but has a sweeter taste. This should not be mistaken with Cuba's arabica production, which is, by many, considered one of the best coffees Worldwide. Unfortunately, this coffee is exported to other countries and cuban import a cheaper one for their own consumption.
5. Last Friday of each month, Little Havana celebrates "Viernes Cultural", which is an artistic, cultural and social arts fair that offers visitors diverse flavors of the Latin community. 

Have you visited Little Havana in Miami? Which were your impressions?

(A Belayed) Friday's Five - 5 Carnival Destinations in Europe

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There's not doubt about Brazil holding the number one Carnival in the World. Carnival in Rio started yesterday and has a full program until Tuesday 8th - which includes street parades, masque balls, street bands and a lot of samba. Good. But taking out Rio de Janeiro - What else has the World to offer? There are a lot less known, but still awesome Carnival Celebrations you should consider as an alternative, and these are my favorite ones:

1. Cologne Carnival. This is the largest and most famous Carnival in Germany (and probably in continental Europe). Although historically the celebration starts on November 11th at 11:11am, the actual Carnival began last Thursday, "The Women's Day", and lasts all the way over to Wednesday 9th, "Ash Wednesday". What's Women's Day you may ask? It's a day that has been celebrated for ages, that thanks all women for the good influence and hard work they have done (and do). During that they, women storm city halls, cut men's ties and are allowed to kiss any man that passes their way!
2. Carnival of Venice. The Carnival of Venice was first recorded in 1268, but was stopped for many years when the city fell under Austrian control (in 1798). It was again revived in the late 20th Century and now is one of the top Carnival destinations Worldwide. The Venetian tradition is most distinctive for the use of artful masks, which were used in the celebration to remove social differences. Anyone participating, could mingle easily with people of different classes or sex.
3. Carnival of Cadiz. Andalusians are probably (together with the Canarios) the spanish folk with highest number of festivities over the year. Cadiz is nationally recognized for it's Carnival, which is relatively different from the rest of Europe. In Cadiz, the costumes worn are often related to recent news (such as the bird flu in 2006, during which many dressed up as chickens!). What's fun about it is it's sharp criticism and original costumes. Another highlight are the groups of chirigotas - satiric popular groups who sing about politics, new times and household matters often using clever world play.  
4. Carnival of Croatia. The most famous Croatian carnival takes place in the costal city of Rijeka, in the Kvarner region. What makes their Carnival unique is the incorporation of local traditions and customs. Just before the end of Carnival, each town in the region burns up a man-like doll called "mesopust" who is blamed for all the conflicts of the previous year. But the most iconic symbol of Croatia's Carnival are the bell ringers, who dress up in lamb-wool costumes and wear big animal masks and walk from one village to another ringing the bells they wear around their waists.
5. Carnival of Santa Cruz de Tenerife. To close, what would be a post about Carnival celebrations without including the major one - the one of my home town? Carnival in Tenerife lasts for several weeks, during which you have the murgas competition (a similar group to the chirigotas), queen elections and culminate in a week of street parties and parades. One of the best days for celebration is "Ash Wednesday", which is called the "Entierro de la Sardina" (The sardine's funeral). This night, locals dress up as widows. Each coastal city builds a huge sardine, which is carried along the streets to the water. It's then placed on a fisher boat and burned, while letting it dragged into the ocean. Everyone "fake cries"! During these days, Tenerife receives massive visits from all over Europe - only the Carnival of Santa Cruz (capital of Tenerife) attracts more than a million visitors! The Carnival aspires to become a UNESCO World Heritage Site this year!

I'm missing Tenerife's Carnival this year, and it's not easy when watching my friends add their pictures on Facebook. I hope next year I will make it again, even if it's only for a weekend!

Me dressed up as Catwoman in Carnival 2006

Which is your favorite Carnival destination? Have you been to any of these? What would you dress up as? 

Photo Essay: Sint Maarten Vs. Saint Martin

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At Marigot Market, St Maarten

On my first Christmas as an employee (ok, let me correct - as a trainee), I went on a Cruise across the Caribbean, stopping at some of the major islands - British Virgin Islands, Puerto Rico and St Maarten, among others. 

It's fairly difficult to go the off beaten track when on a cruise, as you will often only have a couple of hours to discover the island before the Cruise sails away to the next destination (even without you in it!). This is the main reason for which we decided to go for organized activities most of the time - except for St Maarten. 

Saint Martin - The French Side

We rented a car and drove all the way from the dutch to the french side, to visit Marigot. This open-air market is set on Wednesdays and offers a colorful combination of homegrown products, tropical fruits and vegetables, exotic spices and freshly caught fish. It's a great opportunity to grab some local food and do some people watching next to the water. 

Marigot Market

Local fruits and vegetables, some spices and, obviously, some souvenirs too

However, besides for this market, the french side didn't feel too welcoming: restaurants had french prices with bad service, and we even had to queue and pay to using a dirty bathroom. Then again, this is the impression I got after 2 hours in town - I'm sure things would be fairly different if a) I spoke french and b) I would have known where to go.

Sint Maarten - The Dutch Side

We then drove back to Philipsburg (the dutch side) in the afternoon sun. Philipsburg was more civilized and european than Marigot. It had lots of shops, bars and restaurants to spend the rest of the day chilling while drinking a fresh pressed mixed fruit juice on a sunny terrace. What I liked most from the city was its architecture. It is an combination of dutch and caribbean - with a particular colonial style. 

Isn't this a cute Courthouse?

Church made of Bricks and Wood

Although Philipsburg is touristic, I really recommend staying for an afternoon - after all, St. Maarten is the only completely duty-free port in the Caribbean (and Philipsburg must have more shops than locals!).

Facts on the Island

Some other interesting facts you may not know about Saint Martin / Sint Maarten:

1. Legends suggest that when the Dutch and the French agreed to share the island,  they decided to determine the borders by having a race - starting in Oyster Pong (east cost), a Frenchman and a Dutchman started running as fast as they could in opposite directions along the coast. Wherever they met would be the dividing border.
2. It seems as if the Frenchman ran faster, because the French ended up with 21 square miles compared to the Dutch, that kept 16 square miles.
3. Before October 2010, St Maarten belong to the Netherlands Antilles. It now is a new constituent state within the Kingdom of Netherlands.
4. A new currency, the Caribbean Guilder, is to be set in January 2012. This will also be used in Curaçao. 
5. It's airport, Princess Juliana International, is ranked among the most dangerous airports Worldwide. It's short landing strip forces the plane to approach the island flying extremely low, right over tourists' heads at Maho Beach. 

Have you been to Saint Martin / Sint Maarten? Which side do you prefer?

Want to see more pictures of Sint Maarten? Visit my Flickr Gallery!

Dining in London's Oldest Restaurant

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One of the greatest advantages of traveling for work is that you get to eat in places where you usually wouldn't even dare to step in. 

Rules, Covent Garden, London - Picture Source

The best food I had ever tasted - sorry, mom - was in La Table d'Edgar in Lausanne's luxurious Palace hotel. Being frank, if I had gone there on my own, without any company venue, I would have possibly only been able to pay for the plate of cheese (which I wouldn't mind - but would probably be weird). 

Last time I was in London, I had another of those encounters with food heaven - and this one had special merit, as we were having english food (it's all said). After one of the cocktails, we headed out in the search of some real food and soon were recommended to go to Rules. Once the taxi had left us at the entrance a doorman with a top hat kindly welcomed us to restaurant. Obviously, we didn't get a table (after all, we didn't arrange any reservations) and headed over to Porterhouse Brewing Co. to have a Delirium Tremens, while we waited for our turn.

And it was time for us to go back to the food. Rules is one of those few restaurants left that, as soon as you step in, you feel at home. I miss that comfort and in modern restaurants - they may be all shiny, minimalistic and create liquid tortillas and cucumber foam - but at the end, it just doesn't feel cozy and warm. 

At Rules, the dishes are classics - like sirloin steak, banoffee pie or sticky toffee pudding. But compared to other places I've tried british cuisine, its dishes are local and fresh. Before deliberately choosing from the menu, it's better to take note from the waiter's recommendations - specially when it's not game season, as some of the dishes might not be available. For the record, the menu even warns you about the possibility of game birds containing lead shot! 

I ordered the roast salt marsh saddle of lamb with carrots and rosemary mash. The dish was thoughtfully prepared and tasted deliciously (which is why I'm going to recommend it to anyone considering going to the restaurant out of game season). 

Why does english food taste better at Rules?

Well, I may have some thoughts on this. 

First, the restaurant owns the Lartington Estate, where they source their highest quality game birds, roe deer and Belted Galloway beef (which is why it's probably even better to go during game season itself). 

Second, c'ome on, it's the oldest restaurant of London! It was established in 1798 and since, has only been in hands of 3 different families. You can smell and taste the tradition of the restaurant. But you can most particularly see it. Its past is reflected on its walls with innumerable frames containing photographs and paintings from London and Rules itself. 

Third, feeling comfortable makes me enjoy the food more. I stop worrying about where to put my legs, about the hard chair or the cold breeze and just concentrate on the food itself. 

What: English cuisine

Where: Rules Restaurant - 35 Maiden Lane, Covent Garden, London WC2E 7LB
Web: http://www.rules.co.uk
How much: main dishes between 18 and 26 pounds aprox.

When: Whenever, but specially during game season 

What makes, in your opinion, a good restaurant?