Night & Day in Buenos Aires (Part II)

La Boca, probably one of Buenos Aire's biggest touristic attractions, has more than just colourful buildings offering live tango and a local snack. Many of these buildings are cheap housing where several families share a bedroom (sleeping in shifts throughout the day), and where up to 30 people would share the cooking, washing and bathroom facilities. I'm not talking about a hundred years ago - this is still the case today.

When I arrived to La Boca, the area was packed with tourists - there was no single place available in any of the terraces. Me and my friend were hungry, and thirsty - and just wanted to sit down, relax and enjoy the view. While walking along the main streets you can observe a strange mix of tourism and poverty. We adventured into a secondary street with a small little cafe with just a few tables outside and decided it was time to rest. When our empanadas arrived on the table, we were delighted with a whole collection of dipping sauces (I'm not sure If they did this to have reasons for conversation or because they were confused about what my indian friend might eat, but it was really charming!).

It was a perfect saturday afternoon. Until we heard a loud noise coming from behind me and I pictured my friend with a pale look. The friendly bar keeper quickly asked us to run inside. I got to take a quick look to what was happening: a street fight with nothing else but harmless stones and bottles flying all over the next intersection just 20 meters from our lovely terrace! We quickly ran inside looking for some shelter while the bar keeper, his wife and his friends left their mobile phones and wallets on our table inside and ran out shutting the door (with a key) behind them.

Ok, there we were. Stuck inside of a small bar while outside the apocalypses was taking place. I must admit, I somehow felt safe - whatever was happening, it wasn't anything against us, but against the lovely people from La Boca, who seemed to be well used to these kind of fights.

After a while, things calmed down and everyone who just an hour before was chilling at the bar sipping a beer, came back inside and back to their position as if nothing had happened. I was astonished. Nobody had a single scratch! I was told this was the usual saturday afternoon event, every time La Boca plays against Racing. When I was back in Uruguay I was corrected - this happens any time any argentinian football club has any kind of match, but specially when La Boca vs. Racing.

Good to know for the next time!

(I would still return...)