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100MILES HIGHWAY: I Eat Paris.

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I Eat Paris.

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100MILES HIGHWAY: I Eat Paris.

Sunday, January 16, 2011

I Eat Paris.


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It was saturday morning and I had made my way to the one place that had never dissapointed me in this city - Marais. I remembered it colorful and full of life. I got out of the cab at Rue de Bretagne, and walked along this street until I reached the marché des Enfants Rouges. This is not any food market, no. Besides from having a broad selection of fish and vegetables (as any other local market), it has stands offering all kind of culinary creations from all over the World. I was particulary impressed by the moroccan corner - people were even queuing to order one of their tajines with couscous, chicken and vegetables! It was still too early for me to have lunch (my internal clock still ticks on spanish times), I only queued for one of their sweet delights (funny they call them delights - what's so light about them?).

The moroccan "delights"


 Le marché des Enfants Rouges, from the inside


Just a couples of steps from the market, there was a traditional cheese shop. A real one. I thought the swiss knew how to make cheese, but you know what? The french know better. There you go, 11:30am and I was already complimenting the french. But I wasn't going to be that easy to conquire. There had to be something else than well, cheese, to win me back ( of course, I couldn't resist, and bought a smelly cheese before leaving the shop).

The traditional cheese shop 

You think this is a lot of variety? This was only the "on sale" section...

After doing some shopping (more on that coming soon), I found this little cafe called Rose Bakery in Rue Debelleyme, in with people were queuing to get a table and I thought if the french are queuing for it, it must be really worth it. Well, turns out it wasn't very french, as Rose Bakery is a british bakery with a couple of branches around Paris, London and Seoul (which explains why the waiters spoke perfect english). It might have not been the oh-so-french-cafe I had thought, but the 10 minutes queuing were still worth it. I ordered a fresh pressed apple juice and a roasted vegetables quiche accompanied by an organic salad, which I really recommend to anyone looking for fresh and handmade quality food. A very healthy place, if you manage to ignore their multiple cupcakes and brownies, that is.


Notice the basket full of oranges!

I started walking out of Marais, hoping to arrive to the Eiffel Tower just on time for sunset. This seemend to be a total achievable goal of mine, if it wasn't because I got caught up in a tunisian demonstration. A couple of long minutes later, I got out of the wave of people right into Rue Saint-Martin, where a tiny cute shop caught my attention - Le Boutique du Macaron. Now how was I going to leave Paris without macarons? That would be like leaving Turkey without baklawa, right? Le Boutique du Macaron has a surprisingly unusual set of salty macarons - chocolate with foie, tomato with basilic and truffles are some of their exotic flavors (which I bought, of course).


When I realized that I wasn't going to make it before sunset, and felt exhausted of carrying cheese, macarons, and a couple of impulsive sales purchases, I walked into Adam's, in Rue Danielle Casanova - in theory, I only wanted to have a cup of tea... But couldn't resist their lemon cake and ended up having both (I know... what's wrong with me?). Some time around 8pm, Adam's closed, and they gave a piece of galette to each of us last stranded customers (which I had for breakfast today!). 

Anyway, out of all places and foods I tasted this weekend, I've left the best for the my last lunch. My train was leaving at 4pm, so I still had half a day to enjoy the city (noticed that I'm using terms like "enjoy" when talking about Paris...?). I walked around Notre Dame and Louvre (you see? I also do some sightseeing!) and decided to walk back to this rather hidden square I fell in love with a long time ago - Place Dauphine.

Place Dauphine, Paris


Although there are quite a few cafes surrounding the square, don't expect many of them to be open on a sunday. I tried my luck and asked for a table at La Rose de France, a charming local cafe with a mouthwatering menu, with starters being 12.30 € main course 18.80 € and desserts 8.60 €, which, although it cannot be considered budget, is quite acceptable for the area and quality of both food and service.  

La Rose de France, Place Dauphine


Mille-feuille of duck breast and pineapples 
with gratin potatoes and honey sauce 


My verdict? In terms of food - Paris has got me. I can't resist to a city with such a broad variety and good quality of food. In my opinion, as long as you escape from the tourist traps, you're in a safe haven in almost any corner shop of the city. However, this, I already knew. France (and the french) enjoy food - it's not the material that fills you up when you are hungry, it's cultural. The french eat in groups, they'll have a glass of wine (or two or three), they'll talk (main subjects being the food and the wine) and have a good time. In this aspect, they are very much similar to the spanish, which is why I like it. What concerned me most was the service. As you might have read previously, I was treated like shit in bars and restaurants all over France (and specially in Paris), and I was expecting the same this time, being the only difference that this time I would know what the waiter was complaining about. 

Turns out, I was wrong. In each place I've had a lunch, coffee, dinner, I was always treated with respect and, in some occasions even with kind words and wide smiles! One waiter recommended me not to take a plate because "it's too expensive for the quality", many of them asked me where I was from and told me that I could also order in english if I preferred (which I didn't - I wanted to practice!). 

If you have been in Paris in the last couple of years, what are your impressions on this? Do you feel the service sector more.... service oriented than before? 
And more generally, have you ever ruled out a country / city because of a bad experience? 

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12 Comments:

At January 17, 2011 at 1:08 AM , Anonymous Brenna [fabuleuxdestin] said...

YAY another Paris lover! So glad you had a great time. That lunch looks amazing. I will def have to check out your recs!

 
At January 17, 2011 at 5:52 AM , Blogger Andi of My Beautiful Adventures said...

Oh gosh, I'm drooling over here...

 
At January 17, 2011 at 5:55 AM , Anonymous Anonymous said...

Mmmm that cheese looks so amazing. One thing I miss living in Korea... they have no good cheese!! Paris is such an amazing city right? I can remember sitting on the steps of the Sacre Couer in Montmatre at 6am in the morning with some young guy playing the guitar and every one jamming to Bob Marley songs watching the lights flash on the distant Eiffel tower...it was unreal!

 
At January 17, 2011 at 12:04 PM , Blogger Unknown said...

I think you should find yourself an apartment en Place Dauphine, Katherina, and give yourself up to Paris.

She won the battle ;-)

Mmmmmmmmcheesemmmmmmmm.

 
At January 17, 2011 at 12:38 PM , Blogger Katherina said...

@Brenna [fabuleuxdestin] You should definitely try La Rose de France... but I think on the weekends it's better if you reserve a table! (I got mine because a couple cancelled in last minute, and the restaurant was full!)

 
At January 17, 2011 at 12:40 PM , Blogger Katherina said...

@janetnewenham Wow Janet... that sounds like a great time! I once was invited to some french people's apartment in Montmartre. We had wine until sunrise... and you could see the Eiffel Tower from their living room! The french know how to have their fun... that's for sure!

 
At January 17, 2011 at 12:41 PM , Blogger Katherina said...

@Wombat Maybe I'm too easy to win back :)

 
At January 18, 2011 at 2:59 AM , Blogger Unknown said...

I wish I could eat Paris every day!

 
At January 18, 2011 at 4:37 AM , Anonymous Ayngelina said...

It's so funny because I've been thinking a lot about service lately as I've been traveling through Latin America.

The concept of providing good services definite tends to be a North America thing as I'm constantly chasing down staff to order and finally pay.

 
At January 18, 2011 at 11:40 AM , Blogger Katherina said...

@AyngelinaYou're so right! But its also right that in the US a big portion of one's salary depends on the tips, right? That probably helps to make a difference... In France, the tip is already included in all prices so, in theory, they wouldn't need to make any effort!

 
At January 19, 2011 at 3:52 AM , Blogger TexaGermaFinlaNadian said...

Your pictures are great, and those cheeses look so delicious. I live over in Europe but feel like such a failure for not making it over to Paris yet. You posts might just be the persuading I need! Glad I stopped by (from Travel Babbles).
http://texagermanadian.blogspot.com/

 
At January 19, 2011 at 2:29 PM , Blogger Katherina said...

@TexaGermaNadian Hi! Thanks for coming along. I hope my fellow citizens in Germany are treating you well!
Paris is a beautiful city... sometimes a bit unfriendly to foreigners, but still beautiful (and I really can't complain about how I've been treated this time!)... I really recommend you to go, even if it's only for a weekend!

 

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